Archival Scrapbooking

Archival Scrapbooking requires careful attention to using materials that will last a lifetime or longer. Archiving is about making sure that no harm comes to precious photos by understanding some photo-archival facts.Acid-free does not always mean the product is photo or archival-safe when it comes to archival scrapbooking. One day I finally purchased a special pH marker that when applied to the objects surface, revealed whether the material was really archival safe. To my surprise at the time, I discovered some of my material certainly was not safe, and so since then, I have learned how to mingle the unsafe with the safe (when I just had to use a piece of material), thus minimizing the chances of harm to my photographs. Talk about a crash course in archival scrapbooking!

The Photographic Activity Test (PAT), developed by the company, Image Permanence Institute, and performed by several manufacturers, predicts or shows possible interactions between photographic images and the enclosures in which they are stored. If a scrapbook product passes the PAT, it only means the material is safe to use with photographs, but not necessarily safe for archival scrapbooking. It is a good idea to make sure the product has also been pH tested. Also look for archival scrapbooking products that have the CKOK Seal of Approval, as these particular products have met definite requirements to ensure safe merchandise.

Tips for Selecting Commonly Used Scrapbooking Products:

Any paper product used should be acid-free and lignin-free and buffered, which is a process that adds a buffering agent, such as calcium carbonate to the paper, acting as a neutralizer and controlling the pH level from changing over time.

Different kinds of metal will react in various ways with paper ad photographs. It is best to use a coated metal and to be cautious of sharp edges that would scratch or otherwise ruin photos.

Only use lead-free paint. Be cautious with water-soluble paint as it can fade and also run or bleed through to other pages.

Be aware when using natural products, such as corkboard, leaves or flowers, that all of these materials contain the substance lignin and will discolor your pages over time. Take care to use safe methods in combining them in archival scrapbooking.

Use rubber stamp ink that is pigment-based as opposed to dye-based. (Colorbox brand is pigment-based). Not only are dye colors generally less stable over the long run, they are soluble, while pigment colors are non-soluble for archival scrapbooking projects.Always powder-emboss the ink to prevent the color from fading or changing over time.

Scrapbooking stickers should be judged by the same criteria used for choosing paper and adhesives. The sticker should be acid-free and lignin-free and buffered, and the adhesive should meet the safety guidelines of a good archival scrapbooking adhesive.

Sometimes you come across unique treasures from the past or an article from a newspaper, a certificate, or letter to be included in a layout. Following are some safe options for using these items for archival scrapbooking pages.

Newspaper articles can be washed to de-acidify the paper by allowing the article to soak in distilled water in a shallow dish or bowl for 20 minutes. Let paper dry and store in an acid-free environment.

A homemade solution known by genealogists uses a mixture of milk of magnesia with soda water in a shallow container. Let it stand for 12 hours or overnight. Do not put anything into the mix at this point. After 12 hours, place newspaper clippings into the solution and allow soaking for an hour. After the hour, carefully remove it and place on a clean, flat surface. Carefully pat the clipping with a paper towel, but do not rub it. If you do, it will rub the surface ink and paper off and you will have a ruined clipping. Leave it to dry on its own for several hours.

You might wish to place the paper towel on top and then several heavy books to keep the newspaper clipping flat as it begins to dry. Then test it with an acid-free pen. It is said to work well and is an alternative to expensive sprays.

For certificates, letters or larger newsprint items, use a de-acidification spray. Certificates and other documents cannot be washed because they often have ink on them that will run or bleed. Krylon and others have adhesive sprays that can help protect and adhere the document.

Rather than using glue or tape on a valued document, or fiber-based black and white photo, use safe mounting corners. You could also scan the item and print it out. Ideally a laser printer is best, but an inkjet printer can also be used.

Several printers now offer archival ink, but not all printers do so. Companies such as Lyson, Bulldog, MIS Associates, Cone Editions, and others have been providing after-market, pigment based inks for printers by Iris, Epson and other manufacturers. Epson has ownership of its own patented pigment.

Do use the printer/ink/paper combination recommended by the manufacturer. Pigment ink lasts longer than dyes. The manufacturer should know his product. Check to see if he or she has conducted longevity testing of their printer inks (for your printer type) to understand what combinations work for you.

If you do use a dye ink, one ink type is the Ranger Industries Tim Holtz Distress Ink Re-Inker as a scrapbooking product for vintage photos. It helps create an aged look on papers, fibers, photos and more. It comes with an applicator. This is considered an acid-free dye and conforms to ASTM D4236, considered non-toxic. Having said that, what is ASTM D4236? On the short answer, it stands for the American Society for Testing and Materials and what it means is that they have a say in determining toxicity in artistic materials and how safe they are for the public. This code is applied when the material in question may contain health hazards with its use and how to prevent these effects.

Many methods exist in archival safe scrapbooking supplies and these will be studied closer as we look at how to do archival preservation and photo restoration, preserving our memories for a lifetime and the various scrapbooking products involved in archival scrapbooking. Remember that acid-free does not necessarily mean that the product is photo or archival safe? The same goes for when we see the code ASTM D4236 on an art product. Technically this does not mean the product is non-toxic, but that the toxins contained within the product are listed on the packaging. In an age where scrapbooking reaches into the areas of dyes, inks, paints and so on, knowing and understanding these codes will help to keep a project safe and fun.Photo storage will be addressed and how that affects the whole archiving process, especially in scrapbooking. A very safe way to handle original photographs is to scan these photos and original documents, and then the original documents can be stored in an archival-safe photo box or other organizational system. When handling photos, wash your hands on a frequent schedule to avoid transferring your natural skin oils to the photos. If you are working with unique photographs, consider wearing cotton gloves.

Many methods of archival scrapbooking exist. Take them in as you learn about the art of scrapbooking. As with all art, there is a wrong way and a right way to do it well. Remember, it is your choice what you do with your page. Being aware of the best choices makes for a more successful page as you stretch the boundaries of your own imagination. Remember, no scrapbooking police are out there to harass you for how you do your pages. This information, though, can make a difference in how your best work comes out and stays your best.

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